Kathmandu

As one does, we decided to take a long weekend and get out of the city.  Many people that live in cities do this.  For instance, if you live in San Francisco, you take a long weekend to Tahoe; if you live in Minneapolis, you go north to your cabin; and if you live in Delhi, you go to Nepal. 

Kathmandu is about an hour flight from Delhi and there are a gagilion flights that go between the two cities each day.  This is mainly because you cannot get to Nepal directly from anywhere, so these flights are full of exhausted westerners on their way to eternal enlightenment in Nepal.  Some are dressed in high-tech gear, but most are adorned with dreadlocks and 60s throwback, hippie garb.  Despite their best efforts, they will not blend with the locals as Nepal has moved on. 

When we travel to “developing” countries, my wife trends toward the luxury side and likes to stay in 5 star compounds that are safe, have great service and provide mind-blowing spa treatments, while I, in addition to the aforementioned, like to get a bit of local “color” to take back with me.  Sometimes I bring back too much “color” as was the case in Kashmir, but I digress.  Anyway, when I planned this trip, I divided the 5 days into two parts.  Part one was to appease the indulgent side and part two would be to get more “color.”

We arrived in Kathmandu around noon on a sunny and pleasant day and were met by a very talkative driver from the hotel.  On the brief drive, he explained many aspects of Kathmandu, but what we mostly took in was that it was a smaller version of Delhi: overcrowded, polluted, and loud.  This is not in any way the backpackers’ gateway about which most westerners romanticize. 

We rolled up to a large, brick, non-descript building on a busy street that the driver told us was our Hotel, the Dwarika’s Hotel.  The driveway was simply a turn-in that went under an overhang with a large wall providing some privacy from the busy, noisy street.  There were two narrow, wooden doors that led from the small drive area into the hotel.  By all accounts, this did not look promising …. But then they say never judge a book by its cover.

As we passed through the doors, the world outside ceased to exist.  We entered into a large, open-air, porch-like area that spilled into what seemed like an ancient, Nepalese village.  The porch area had several seating areas and the only sounds were the birds and other guests moving about.  The contrast was startling. 

The entrance to the hotel is on the left

The property, apparently, is more museum than hotel and is truly a living monument to traditional Nepalese architecture.  Both inside and out, the attention to detail is impressive.  Many of the window frames, sills and doorways have been salvaged from old buildings before they were destroyed in the name of progress. Unlike most hotels that try to give you a sense of tradition, this feels genuine and natural, rather than Disney-like and manufactured.  The entire effect is unexpectedly pleasant.    

After taking in the view, we were sheparded into the lobby which was to the left of the porch area and were seated on a very comfortable couch.  We were given silk scarves and a glass of fruit juice as we waited to checked-in.  Very relaxing!  The receptionist greeted us and escorted us to our room which, much to our surprise, was the Royal Suite. 

To say the room was large is a gross understatement.  You entered through a pair of ancient doors into a large anteroom appointed with a desk and a seating area for guests.  I assume this is where your personal assistant would coordinate your day if, in fact, you traveled with a personal assistant. To the right, there was a staircase that went to the 2^nd floor where the bulk of the living space resided.  The main room had a dining area and living room that flowed out onto a rooftop terrace complete with lounge chairs, another dining area, and a commanding view of the Kathmandu Valley. As well, above the living, there was a third floor loft with a lounging couch and game area.  The master bedroom in its own right was massive with it’s own sitting area and small, private terrace for morning coffee.  Attached to the master bedroom, there was a huge bathroom with an alter-like tube and 25 foot ceilings. This, apparently, is what $1800 a night gets you in Kathmandu (we, of course, did not pay this!)

The entrance to the room

Living room with terrance out the doors on the right

Living room looking back at the bedroom

Living room - stairs to the third floor

Terrace

Third floor game area

Bedroom sitting area with small terrace in backgroud

Bed

Bathroom

Forcing ourselves to leave our palace, we ventured around the Hotel “village.” The entire area was set up like a fortress to buffer the guest from the outside.  Surrounding the property were 4 story buildings keeping out all but the loudest sounds. Inside, there was a maze of alleyways that led from one sitting area to another, all shaded by trees and surrounded by interesting Nepalese art and artifacts.  Each building, from the doors to the windows were decked out with intricately carved sills and thresholds from a by-gone era.  It was truly one of the most interesting places I have ever stayed. 

Pool Area

One of the many alleyways

A shady getaway for some tea

Buddha 

One of the many sitting areas

Note the blankets on the chair backs for the cool mornings and evenings
Nice touch!

Olga!  Need I say more.

We were lucky to have arrived on a Friday, because the Hotel, each Friday night, has a huge, outdoor BBQ.  We had made reservations in advance and they had reserved us a romantic little table by the pool.  The set up was simple.  There is an area cordoned off for the food in a buffet arrangement and about roughly 12 tables dotting the village green surrounding the pool.  Since the temperature drops significantly at night, each table had a large firebowl to keep the diners warm and the area lit.  The food was plentiful and wonderfully prepared.  We ate until we could eat no more!

At the BBQ

The next day, we tore ourselves away from our sanctuary and toured a little bit of Kathmandu.  We targeted two areas, Boudhanath Stupa and the ancient city of Bhaktapur.  Boudhanath Stupa is the largest stupa in Nepal and is regarded as the one of the holiest sights in Kathmandu.  It is large to say the least, but, like all things in this part of the world, it is inundated with tourists and the parasites that they seem to attract.  The stupa was surrounded on all sides by shops selling assorted religious “artifacts” and local crafts at inflated prices.  We walked around the stupa and learned about Buddhism from a nice monk who eventually invited us back to his monastery across the street.  Apparently, my haircut made me a kindred spirit with the monks.

The Boudhanath Stupa

The area around the stupa

The prayer flags adorning the stupa

Me and my new monk friends
apparently the same barber!

Next, we were off to Bhaktapur which was about 30 minutes outside of Kathmandu.  This very cool little hamlet was the capital of Nepal in the 15^th century and has been restore with absolute perfection through tons of donations from around the world. It, though, too suffers from those that trade on the backs of tourists and it unfortunately ruins the experience.  This is really a shame, because the place is really impressive.  It gives one a sense for what it must have been like in 15^th century Nepal. 

The royal bath - not so royal these days!

The main street of Bhaktapur

On the way back to Kathmandu, I noticed the valley was dotted with smokestacks.  These are all brick-making facilities and area absolutely everywhere around the city.  Almost all the buildings are made from bricks, so this must be a lucrative business, but it is an absolute eyesore.  I image this must have been what the industrial revolution looked like in the English countryside.  

The Brickworks of the Kathmandu Valley

We returned to our refuge slightly worse for the wear and concluded that it would be worth coming to Kathmandu again, but we would never leave the confines of Dwarika’s Hotel!  The contrast between the city and the hotel is so dramatic.  It is not that it is any worse than Delhi, but I do not need to fly an hour to wallow in trash and traffic.  I would fly an hour for peace and quiet and great food, though.

That night, we ate at the Nepalese restaurant, Krishnarpan which is located on the hotel property.  You must book ahead, because you are required to choose your menu in advance. You have the option of anything from 6 courses to 22 courses, vegetarian or non-vegetarian.  We choose 6 courses.  At the assigned time we arrived and were greeted by a friendly staff dressed in the traditional Nepalese style.  We were asked to remove our shoes and then wash our hands in a traditional Nepalese basin.  Shoeless and clean, we were seated at a low table with chairs that are about a half of a foot high.  After settling in, you are introduced to your meal through your personalize menu which actually has your name printed on it.  Apparently, they develop the menu based your course selection and whatever is ready to be picked in their private, rooftop, organic garden.  Each day’s offerings are different and you get what they serve you.  The courses came in rapid succession – ours beginning with momo, a traditional Nepalese dumpling and ending with a wonderful cinnamon and honey yogurt. I have no idea how anyone would eat 22 courses as I needed to be dumped out of my chair by two waitresses and winch after 6.

The next morning, we packed, ate breakfast and nervously got into the van that was going to take us to the next part of our adventure.  All we really knew for sure is that it was called Namo Buddha, it was located 2 hours out of the city and 6000 feet in the Nepalese mountains.

Will I ever learn?