Kashmir - Down the Mountain

Morning could not come soon enough.  Although the trips to the refriga-bathroom had subsided, I was still feeling sluggish and was happy with my decision to head to a more sensible altitude.  I remembered as I was building my contingency plan in case things did not go as smoothly as they did on arrival (ahem!), that there was an Intercontinental (since bought by an Indian Hotelier) in Srinagar.  I was enacting my back-up plan.   

The Ski Shop owner came by about 9:00am and after settling my bill, I began my final preparations for departure.  Just as I was about ready, the woodsman appeared, but this time without the usual basket of wood on his back.  He asked to ferry my bags to the car.   Having no idea where that would be or how far, I agreed.  He grabbed my pack and ski boot-bag and quickly disappeared out the door.  A little concerned, I followed him along the shoveled path and down into a dell in which a black Indian jeep was sitting idling on a snowy road.  I cursed the driver who brought me up here and left me in a field in the dead of night, tipped the woodsman and got in the jeep to make my escape. 

The woodsman with my bags

The route down the mountain is spectacular and much more enjoyable in the light and not scared to death.  The combination of the sun, snow, mountains and forest is truly breathtaking. I have skied Canada, America, Switzerland, Austria and Italy, but there is nothing like Kashmir.  This area has not been encroached upon by multi-million dollar homes and mega-resorts.  It is simple and authentic. 

As we get to the base of the mountain, the Indo-Alpine ambiance becomes decidedly more Indian.  We pass through villages in which people and traffic overwhelm the natural beauty of the area.  Trucks chug out black smoke and people jump on and off moving buses without a worry of life or limb. I have returned to the land of people staring and the distinct feeling of not belonging. 

Coming out of the mountain area and into the encroachment

The first village we passed through

 We arrive in Srinagar round noon and our first stop is the Mosque, Jamia Masjid.  This landmark was built around 1400 and is best known for its 370 wooden pillars and the absolute peacefulness inside.  It sits in the old city and right in the middle of the bazaar, but is completely isolated from the noise.  We were dropped off directly outside the main door and hurried inside.  I got the impression I was not supposed to be there, but it was worth the risk.  The inside is magnificent and completely unique.  I have been in many Mosques throughout the world, but this one, ironically located in one of the most tumultuous areas in the world, was absolutely peaceful.

Inside the Jamia Masjid

We roamed around the Mosque until we garnered some uncomfortable looks and departed for the surrounding bazaar.  There were the typical stores and roadside trolleys that you see all over India, but this area has a flavor that is distinct to Kashmir.  Just a little more interesting and exotic than your average sub continent market. 

After a few minutes of absorbing the sights and sounds of a market that has been around for hundreds of years, we drove across town to the two famous gardens in Srinagar: Shalimar and Nishat.  Both gardens were built in their current form by the Moguls, but the origins of Shalimar predate the Mogul invasion to the ancient Hindu kings around 79AD.  Both are absolutely gorgeous even in the December gray and chill.   

In the center of Srinagar, there is a large lake that serves as the life-blood of the city.  Around it, the city of Srinagar grew from its early beginnings and then during the British Raj, the city grew into the lake, literally.  To circumvent property growth restriction imposed on them by the Maharaja of Kashmir, the British began to build lavish houseboats and lived on the lake rather than around it.  This created a new water-city that survives today replete with grocery boats and small islands to raise livestock.   Also, many stores are only accessible by water taxi, so an entire commercial center has emerged within the houseboat community.  Over the last 50 years, during times of peace, this was the ultimate destination for Indians and staying on a houseboat was considered the superlative treat to escape the heat of Delhi and Bombay.  Unfortunately, the tension with Pakistan and the subsequent militancy have all but killed the tourist industry and many of the once immaculate houseboats have fallen into disrepair. 

We grabbed a boat and toured around the lake.  The boats are long and narrow and have comfortable lounge seats covered with big fluffy pillows.  The main body of the boat is covered and the oarsman or motorman stand on the back.  It is actually a great way to spend a day.  We cruised the open lake for a short while and took in the sights of the surrounding Himalayas before making our way into the backwater streets of the boat community.  It has a kind of alternative feel to it for a westerner, but it is a very mainstream life for the people of Srinagar.  The Ski Shop Owner knew many of the shopkeepers and we stopped to chat and drink tea.  It was a great afternoon.   Did I mention the amazing hospitality of the people of Kashmir?

Boats on the lake 

Note the fort in  the background overlooking the lake 

Shabby without the chic

Commerce on the lake

Livestock on the lake  

The grocery boat

Boats in the shadow of the Himalayas

As the afternoon winter sun began to retreat behind the imposing surrounding mountains, we made our way to the hotel.  The Grand Palace, which at the time was the only western hotel in Srinagar, was set up like a fortress.  It began life as the Maharaja’s palace in the 1910, but was converted in the 1950’s to a hotel, but has lost none of its royal feel.  Surrounded by high walls and long greens, you can image the Maharaja’s personal army standing guard on the parameter.  The Ski Shop Owner dropped me off and after I thank him profusely, he set off back up the mountain. 

I checked into the hotel and had my first shower in 4 days.  It felt good.  I also had not eaten since that fateful lunch, but my appetite had not returned, so I passed on dinner and took a quick walk around the property.  The hotel was almost completely empty.  Apparently, December was not the time to visit Srinagar. It seemed even more desolate as my footsteps echoed in the long marble corridors.  The property sat at the base of a mountain and had a commanding view of the city and lake below.  It was a great location.  The entire hotel had well-bred feel to it and even the rooms, tastefully decorated in antiques, had a regal feel.

The Maharaja's Palace

The grounds of the hotel

Secure in my 5-star hotel and at only 6000ft, I collapsed into bed and fell into a coma-like sleep. I had only one more obstacle to navigate, the airport, and it would prove to be no easy task.