Namo Buddha

The van pulled out into the streets of Kathmandu about 10:45am and it was a mess.  The traffic lights were all out because, well, like in India it was a day that ended with a “Y.”   The streets were snarled with cars, vans and motorcycles while the police just made it worse by forgetting which direction they allowed to go last and letting that side go again.  Tempers were flaring and horns were blaring.  I could not wait to get out into the countryside.

We finally made it out of the city and the traffic, noise and trash dissipated with every kilometer we put behind us.  In the beginning, the road was flat and the once beautiful countryside, became filled with smokestacks from the brick-making facilities.  I would call them factories, as they were simply earthen mounds with a chimney planted on top.  No building or structure to really speak of.  Hundreds of these operations blighted the flat countryside.  It was not what you would have expected when you think of Nepal.

Finally, the road began to turn upward and the scenery changed from a flat, chimney dotted, apocalyptic eyesore to beautiful mountainous, tiered farmland.  Everywhere you looked, the Nepalese had tiered the mountainside and turned it into fertile farmland.  In the valleys and especially along the mountainsides, the entire region burst forth with wheat, vegetables and rice.  As we wound our way through the mountains, the people became less westernize, as well.  Traditional colorful Nepalese styles replaced the slipshod, western clothing of Kathmandu.  There was simply a cleaner, more grounded feeling the further Kathmandu was in the rear-view mirror.

A little more than an hour into the trip, we turned off the main road onto a poorly maintained dirt road.  Just as we made the turn, we were stopped by a serious looking boy who was collecting tolls for the maintenance of the inadequately maintained dirt road.  Basically, he had privatized the road as his own little money making scheme in the name of the Maoist local government.  Ah, the irony that true capitalism can only flourish under a communist regime.   

The pitted road snaked its way up the mountain for roughly 4 or 5 miles, but the condition of the road meant that it took us well over 30 minutes to traverse it.  There were times that we were sure we were going to slip over the edge and plummet the mile down to the valley floor, but somehow we made it to the top and I mean, the very top.  Sitting at 6000 feet, we arrived at the Namo Buddha Resort. 

To use the word “resort” is to employ a bit of hyperbole to describe this venture into the hospitality industry.  One typically associates a “resort” with a big enterprise that has huge buffet meals, large pools and children’s programs.  The Namo Buddha Resort would be the exact opposite of that.  It is a series of traditional Nepalese houses situated on a breathtaking mountaintop supplied by its own organic farm in the most peaceful, remote setting you can possibly image. 

We were greeted by Surendra, the Innkeeper and the owner’s boy Friday. He sat us in front of the main building, poured us some home made lemongrass tea and allowed us to soak up the stunning views while they put the finishing touches on our bungalow. He is a local guy who, after some time in the tourist industry, came back home and began to manage this place for the owner, a German fellow.  Surendra was a pleasant guy with a laid back demeanor and a genuine interest in providing a great experience for his guests.   I liked him immediately. 

Olga Enjoying the View 

We were shown to our cottage which was situated at the front of the property overlooking the valley below and the spectacular Himalayas in front.  It was designed in the tradition of the houses in this region both by size and architecture and the only difference being the first floor contained a living room rather than livestock.  The doors and windows were small and the second floor was accessed by a slanted ladder stairwell.  The sum total of the second floor was a queen size bed. Overall, though, the place was comfortable and clean and had just enough room for us to spread out.   Outside the cottage, we had two sitting areas.  One was a small porch on the side of the house and the other was a larger terrace that faced the valley and the mountains.  Seriously, what more do you need?

Our Cottage

The First Floor

The Second Floor

The Stairwell Down

The Wife

Same porch, looking the other way

View from the patio

We unpacked, changed into something more mountain-appropriate and took a quick look around to see what this place was all about. As I said, the property sits on top of a mountain in the middle of eastern Nepal.  It consists of about 12 cottages all built in the local style with low ceilings and even lower doorways.  Each cottage is a unique design and is situation to take advantage of the different views from the mountaintop.  There is what I would call, a main building which houses a dining room on the first floor and a library on the second.  Around it there are other buildings for the kitchen, and cold stores, but since every building looks like a cottage, you cannot tell the difference.  It just feels like a small Nepalese village.  Surrounding and intermixed to some extend with the cottages is the real piece de resistance: patches and patches of organic farming.  The entire lodge is self sufficient by its own farming including its own cows for milk and dairy products.  They also filter their own water.  Pretty cool even if you are not an enviro-nut.

More cottages

View through some of the cottages

Porch of the neighboring cottage

The valley below

One of the many paths that snake through the complex

From the front of the main building

Along main path

Same path - opposite direction
Olga in front of main building having tea

Over the roof of neighboring cottage

Looking left from our cottage

The valley rolling toward the Himalayas

People working the farm 

Some of the yummy vegetables

Not a bad place to be a vegetable

We eventually meandered up to the main house where Surendra was waiting to serve lunch.  Because of the angle of the sun, he moved some table and chairs on to the terrace of the backside of the house, so we could enjoy the warmth.  Lunch came shortly after.  We learned quickly that when you are staying at basically a working farm, you eat whatever they serve you, because they are serving you what ever is ready to eat.  Secondly, we learned that whatever they served was awesome, so no one really cared about the lack of choice.  Lunch was a paneer sandwich (Paneer is a cheese) and fresh greens – and I mean fresh as in picked 20 minute ago!  We scarfed down the excellent lunch and prepared for our first foray into the Nepalese outback – a hike to the Namo Buddha Monastery.  

Namo Buddha is an extremely holy place in Buddhism.  It is actually the 4^th most important site.  Apparently, a young prince, after coming across a starving tiger and her cubs, sacrificed himself as food thus saving the life of the tiger and her youngsters.  During Buddha’s life, he remembered that in a past life, he was this prince and set up a stupa her to honor the memory.  Obviously, the stupa is very old and very revered.  A few years ago, on the other side of the mountaintop from the stupa, a monastery was built.  With hiking boots on, we set off to see the aforementioned monastery. 

Possibly the cave in which it took place???

It was a fairly easy 30-minute walk across the ridge and the views both along the way and at the monastery were incredible.  I was a little hesitant just to charge into the monastery (nothing worse than angry monks), but no one seemed to be around, so we went in.  The monetary is a large complex of buildings perched on the edge of the mountain brightly decorated in reds, golds and whites.   There were several buildings that were clearly dorms and many others that were either halls or temples.  Emanating from several of these halls were drums and chanting, so we assumed it was prayer time, but with no one around to ask, we simply pushed on through the maze of cliff-hanging buildings. We continued to the edge of the monastery which spilled out into the small yard of a farmer.  The house buffered the monastery with the end of the ridge that was colorfully decorated in flowing prayer flags.  As the house sat precariously close to the edge of the narrow cliff, we decided to turn back.

The Namo Buddha Monastery 

Prayer Flags and en route to the Monastery above

The first building of the Monastery

The valley en route to the Monastery 

Olga entering the holy complex

The valley in front of the Monastery 

One of the temples hanging over out over the valley

Temple

Praying 

One of many collages of prayer flags

The end of the road

I haven't a clue, but I liked the colors

Stunning cloud-play on the valley

A busload (and then some) of pilgrims coming to the stupa

The valley to the east

The adjacent ridge

The sounds of the Monastery

We returned to the resort and were greeted with Surendra offering tea and water.  We gladly accepted and sat looking out over the Himalayas drinking lemongrass tea and eating freshly baked almond cookies.  I think this is what they refer to when they speak about Shangri-La.

Dinner was served promptly at 7:00pm, so we entered the main house a few minutes early not wanting to be late.  The inside of the house had two long, low tables abutted by traditional Nepalese chairs and tonight there were 4 place settings at the end of one table.  We took our respective seats and waited.  Looking around, the room was really interesting. It had a low ceiling and very dim lighting.  Everything was made of wood and was done clearly by hand.  The seating arrangement was that everyone sat together and got to know each other, rather than at separate tables.  It was cozy and friendly and reminded me of what it must have been like 300 hundred years ago.  

The dining room

A few minutes later Surendra arrived with the owner in tow.  He was in his late 60s with long white stranded hair and a disarming smile.  He sat down next to me, introduced himself and the conversation was rich right through dessert.  He was a very pleasant man who had come to Nepal many years ago in a camper and, after many years, bought a small plot of land.  Through the years, he bought more and came up with the idea of the resort.  A traveler by nature, he instantly bonds with the guests and it makes for a great evening.  Since we were the only guests that night, we were fortunate enough to be afforded his full attention. 

With our bellies stuffed with great food and lungs filled with fresh air, we returned to our abode ready for a good night’s sleep. Inside the cottages, they do not have any curtains, so to keep out light, you close the shutters.  With the shutters closed, the room is very dark and eerily quiet.  I fell asleep instantly with dreams of the big trek the next day!

Kathmandu

As one does, we decided to take a long weekend and get out of the city.  Many people that live in cities do this.  For instance, if you live in San Francisco, you take a long weekend to Tahoe; if you live in Minneapolis, you go north to your cabin; and if you live in Delhi, you go to Nepal. 

Kathmandu is about an hour flight from Delhi and there are a gagilion flights that go between the two cities each day.  This is mainly because you cannot get to Nepal directly from anywhere, so these flights are full of exhausted westerners on their way to eternal enlightenment in Nepal.  Some are dressed in high-tech gear, but most are adorned with dreadlocks and 60s throwback, hippie garb.  Despite their best efforts, they will not blend with the locals as Nepal has moved on. 

When we travel to “developing” countries, my wife trends toward the luxury side and likes to stay in 5 star compounds that are safe, have great service and provide mind-blowing spa treatments, while I, in addition to the aforementioned, like to get a bit of local “color” to take back with me.  Sometimes I bring back too much “color” as was the case in Kashmir, but I digress.  Anyway, when I planned this trip, I divided the 5 days into two parts.  Part one was to appease the indulgent side and part two would be to get more “color.”

We arrived in Kathmandu around noon on a sunny and pleasant day and were met by a very talkative driver from the hotel.  On the brief drive, he explained many aspects of Kathmandu, but what we mostly took in was that it was a smaller version of Delhi: overcrowded, polluted, and loud.  This is not in any way the backpackers’ gateway about which most westerners romanticize. 

We rolled up to a large, brick, non-descript building on a busy street that the driver told us was our Hotel, the Dwarika’s Hotel.  The driveway was simply a turn-in that went under an overhang with a large wall providing some privacy from the busy, noisy street.  There were two narrow, wooden doors that led from the small drive area into the hotel.  By all accounts, this did not look promising …. But then they say never judge a book by its cover.

As we passed through the doors, the world outside ceased to exist.  We entered into a large, open-air, porch-like area that spilled into what seemed like an ancient, Nepalese village.  The porch area had several seating areas and the only sounds were the birds and other guests moving about.  The contrast was startling. 

The entrance to the hotel is on the left

The property, apparently, is more museum than hotel and is truly a living monument to traditional Nepalese architecture.  Both inside and out, the attention to detail is impressive.  Many of the window frames, sills and doorways have been salvaged from old buildings before they were destroyed in the name of progress. Unlike most hotels that try to give you a sense of tradition, this feels genuine and natural, rather than Disney-like and manufactured.  The entire effect is unexpectedly pleasant.    

After taking in the view, we were sheparded into the lobby which was to the left of the porch area and were seated on a very comfortable couch.  We were given silk scarves and a glass of fruit juice as we waited to checked-in.  Very relaxing!  The receptionist greeted us and escorted us to our room which, much to our surprise, was the Royal Suite. 

To say the room was large is a gross understatement.  You entered through a pair of ancient doors into a large anteroom appointed with a desk and a seating area for guests.  I assume this is where your personal assistant would coordinate your day if, in fact, you traveled with a personal assistant. To the right, there was a staircase that went to the 2^nd floor where the bulk of the living space resided.  The main room had a dining area and living room that flowed out onto a rooftop terrace complete with lounge chairs, another dining area, and a commanding view of the Kathmandu Valley. As well, above the living, there was a third floor loft with a lounging couch and game area.  The master bedroom in its own right was massive with it’s own sitting area and small, private terrace for morning coffee.  Attached to the master bedroom, there was a huge bathroom with an alter-like tube and 25 foot ceilings. This, apparently, is what $1800 a night gets you in Kathmandu (we, of course, did not pay this!)

The entrance to the room

Living room with terrance out the doors on the right

Living room looking back at the bedroom

Living room - stairs to the third floor

Terrace

Third floor game area

Bedroom sitting area with small terrace in backgroud

Bed

Bathroom

Forcing ourselves to leave our palace, we ventured around the Hotel “village.” The entire area was set up like a fortress to buffer the guest from the outside.  Surrounding the property were 4 story buildings keeping out all but the loudest sounds. Inside, there was a maze of alleyways that led from one sitting area to another, all shaded by trees and surrounded by interesting Nepalese art and artifacts.  Each building, from the doors to the windows were decked out with intricately carved sills and thresholds from a by-gone era.  It was truly one of the most interesting places I have ever stayed. 

Pool Area

One of the many alleyways

A shady getaway for some tea

Buddha 

One of the many sitting areas

Note the blankets on the chair backs for the cool mornings and evenings
Nice touch!

Olga!  Need I say more.

We were lucky to have arrived on a Friday, because the Hotel, each Friday night, has a huge, outdoor BBQ.  We had made reservations in advance and they had reserved us a romantic little table by the pool.  The set up was simple.  There is an area cordoned off for the food in a buffet arrangement and about roughly 12 tables dotting the village green surrounding the pool.  Since the temperature drops significantly at night, each table had a large firebowl to keep the diners warm and the area lit.  The food was plentiful and wonderfully prepared.  We ate until we could eat no more!

At the BBQ

The next day, we tore ourselves away from our sanctuary and toured a little bit of Kathmandu.  We targeted two areas, Boudhanath Stupa and the ancient city of Bhaktapur.  Boudhanath Stupa is the largest stupa in Nepal and is regarded as the one of the holiest sights in Kathmandu.  It is large to say the least, but, like all things in this part of the world, it is inundated with tourists and the parasites that they seem to attract.  The stupa was surrounded on all sides by shops selling assorted religious “artifacts” and local crafts at inflated prices.  We walked around the stupa and learned about Buddhism from a nice monk who eventually invited us back to his monastery across the street.  Apparently, my haircut made me a kindred spirit with the monks.

The Boudhanath Stupa

The area around the stupa

The prayer flags adorning the stupa

Me and my new monk friends
apparently the same barber!

Next, we were off to Bhaktapur which was about 30 minutes outside of Kathmandu.  This very cool little hamlet was the capital of Nepal in the 15^th century and has been restore with absolute perfection through tons of donations from around the world. It, though, too suffers from those that trade on the backs of tourists and it unfortunately ruins the experience.  This is really a shame, because the place is really impressive.  It gives one a sense for what it must have been like in 15^th century Nepal. 

The royal bath - not so royal these days!

The main street of Bhaktapur

On the way back to Kathmandu, I noticed the valley was dotted with smokestacks.  These are all brick-making facilities and area absolutely everywhere around the city.  Almost all the buildings are made from bricks, so this must be a lucrative business, but it is an absolute eyesore.  I image this must have been what the industrial revolution looked like in the English countryside.  

The Brickworks of the Kathmandu Valley

We returned to our refuge slightly worse for the wear and concluded that it would be worth coming to Kathmandu again, but we would never leave the confines of Dwarika’s Hotel!  The contrast between the city and the hotel is so dramatic.  It is not that it is any worse than Delhi, but I do not need to fly an hour to wallow in trash and traffic.  I would fly an hour for peace and quiet and great food, though.

That night, we ate at the Nepalese restaurant, Krishnarpan which is located on the hotel property.  You must book ahead, because you are required to choose your menu in advance. You have the option of anything from 6 courses to 22 courses, vegetarian or non-vegetarian.  We choose 6 courses.  At the assigned time we arrived and were greeted by a friendly staff dressed in the traditional Nepalese style.  We were asked to remove our shoes and then wash our hands in a traditional Nepalese basin.  Shoeless and clean, we were seated at a low table with chairs that are about a half of a foot high.  After settling in, you are introduced to your meal through your personalize menu which actually has your name printed on it.  Apparently, they develop the menu based your course selection and whatever is ready to be picked in their private, rooftop, organic garden.  Each day’s offerings are different and you get what they serve you.  The courses came in rapid succession – ours beginning with momo, a traditional Nepalese dumpling and ending with a wonderful cinnamon and honey yogurt. I have no idea how anyone would eat 22 courses as I needed to be dumped out of my chair by two waitresses and winch after 6.

The next morning, we packed, ate breakfast and nervously got into the van that was going to take us to the next part of our adventure.  All we really knew for sure is that it was called Namo Buddha, it was located 2 hours out of the city and 6000 feet in the Nepalese mountains.

Will I ever learn?